A Day on Inis Mór

My wife and I are enjoying an extended vacation while visiting our daughter in Galway, Ireland.  I didn’t prepare to bike while visiting, expecting wet conditions from rain typical this time of year.  However, we seemed to have hit the ‘sweet spot’ with the weather, as temperatures have been mild under mostly sunny skies.  In fact, the weather conditions have been nearly identical to those in Bismarck.  I guess this is one instance where bringing North Dakota weather on vacation has been a good thing.

The first of our three tours outside Galway was a visit to Aran islands.  After a short bus transfer from downtown Galway to Rossaveel, we boarded a ferry to Inis Mór, the largest of the three Aran islands.  Exploring Inis Mór can be done by bus tour, horse drawn carriage, bike, or foot beginning from Kilronan.  Recognizing our visit would be brief (about six hours), I opted to rent a bike while my wife and daughter chose the bus.  Before going our different ways, we plotted out a plan to meet atop Dún Aonghasa, a prehistoric stone fort that’s a must-see attraction (and under consideration as a future World Heritage site).

I chose a ‘city bike’ with decent tires, functional brakes, and (mostly) functional derailleurs.  After a slight seat adjustment, I headed out of town on the main road west with the wind to my back.

(The ‘bike hire’ establishment of choice…   …they were closest to the dock)

(Not my Koga-Miyata, but for 10€ I didn’t complain)

(Heading away from the pier…)

(...past the Aran Sweater Market…)

(…and up a gentle hill along roads lined with stone walls)

The scenery was most impressive, with wide expanses pasture land interspersed with small settlements of well-kept houses.  I found the network of stone fences particularly amazing, partitioning out sections of land as far as I could see.  Simply put, the surroundings were nothing like I had encountered in previous travels.

(No easy chore building those fences!)

(A unique ‘Share the Road’ sign)

(Evidence of small-scale agriculture; goats and a garden)

(Friendly mule takes a nibble from my handlebar grip)

The visit to Dún Aonghasa was excellent, despite my aversion to heights.  As planned, I met up with my travel companions at the top of the fort, which made for memorable time together.  We soaked in the surroundings for a half hour before returning to the visitor’s center.

(The bike corral at the visitor’s center)

(The hike up to Dún Aonghasa)

(Dún Aonghasa)

(Inside the fort)

(View of the cliffs east of the fort)

Once at the visitor’s center, the bus schedule provided just enough time to enjoy tea, apple pie, and carrot cake at the best café on the island.  We were fortunate to have a table next to the fireplace.  Lucky!

(The best café on the island has a grass roof)

(Enjoying our time together before venturing back to Kilronan)

From the café, I attempted to ride further west to the Seven Churches.  On the way I encountered two herdsman (one on a bike) and a small group of cattle heading in the same direction.  Not wanting to bother the cattle (or the herdsman), I turned back and retraced my route, stopping once at Dún Eochla, another fort a short distance from the main road.

(Aran Island cattle drive)

(Buildings seemed older on the western half of the island)

(Stone cistern for cattle)

(A steep 500 m climb to Dún Eochla…)

(…but well worth the view)

My return to Kilronan was uneventful, though the weather took a turn with increased winds and light rain.  Though I would have enjoyed exploring the Inis Mór more thoroughly by bike, I was glad to get back.  A nasty head cold was settling in my ears and throat, and I was feeling physically exhausted despite the short distance traveled.  No regrets for not doing more, though.  It was a good day, and I’m glad I had a chance to see much of the island by bike.

(Welcome relief at the end of the ride)

George S. Mickelson Trail – Part II

My intention was for this to be the last installment reviewing this trail, having ridden the Edgemont to Custer section of the Mickelson Trail in 2014.  My plans were start at Deadwood and ride quickly to Custer along Highway 385, and then return to Deadwood by way of the trail before nightfall.  However, a loose crank bolt in the first six miles of the ride compromised these plans significantly.  Not wanting to push my luck over 112 miles with an uncertain mechanical and few useful tools, I explored my options to salvage the day.

(Starting at the Deadwood Trailhead, 8:00 a.m. sharp!)

(Reviewing my options along Highway 385…   …feeling ‘Closed for the Season’)

Fortunately, the map I brought identified a nearby gravel road with a direct route to the Mickelson Trail.  In fact, the distance from Highway 385 and the Englewood Trailhead was a mere six miles along mostly smooth hardpack.  Even by adopting a slower pace and stopping periodically to tighten the crank bolt, I arrived at the trailhead in less than 25 minutes.

(Smooth riding on this gravel road…)

(…passing directly by a gravel quarry, naturally)

Following a short pit stop at the trailhead, I learned there was a marathon being held from Rochford to Deadwood.  This was another setback, for if I were to head south along the trail I would soon come in contact with heavy traffic.  After a few minutes of mulling this new news, I decided to ride to Rochford anyway.  As a multi-use trail, I certainly wouldn’t be the only cyclist the marathon participants would come in contact with.  Tightening my crack bolt again, I headed south from Englewood along chipped limestone.

(More smooth riding...  ...wide tires at low pressure rolled nicely over this variable surface)

The marathon appeared to be a veteran’s benefit, as there were numerous military personnel participating.  I passed many in full fatigues with standard-issue boots, and even some with what appeared to be full backpacks.  Running/walking 26+ miles in that gear was surely no easy task.  Most impressive!

(Here come the marathoners!)

Riding in the opposite direction of the participants allowed me to find open trail quickly.  As I approached Rochford I soaked up the changing colors of the trees under bright blue skies.  The disappointment of my changed plans dissipated.  It was a turning out to be a good day.

(One of many bridges crossed on the way to Rochford)

(Tunnel shortly before Rochford)

The Rochford Trailhead was a hotbed of activity, with cyclists arriving from Custer as part of the 2016 Mickelson Trail Trek.  The trailhead was also the starting location for what appeared to be a Boy Scout bike ride.  I quickly used the facilities, filled both water bottles, and pointed my bike north.

(Rochford Trailhead)

(A welcome spigot to refill bottles for the ride back to Deadwood)

Not wanting to ride in the same direction as the marathon participants, I opted to take Highway 17 out of Rochford.  My hope was to pass most (if not all) the walkers prior to the Englewood Trailhead and then take the Mickelson Trail the rest of the way into Deadwood.  Despite the absence of a shoulder, the highway was essentially devoid of traffic making for some enjoyable riding.

(Bovine criminals?)

(They appeared peaceful enough from the highway)

My plan to leapfrog the walkers worked mostly.  I passed less than 20 participants in the last 10 miles into Deadwood, making the final descent particularly enjoyable.  Should I have the opportunity to ride the Mickelson Trail in its entire length in the future, I would want to experience this descent again.  Perhaps someday…

(A slight rise to the trail before dropping into Deadwood)

Theodore Roosevelt National Park – South Unit Loop

With my planned brevets in September and October derailed by work commitments and ridiculously priced lodging, I’ve opted to sneak in some rides with a local flair, beginning with North Dakota’s own Theodore Roosevelt National Park.  The park includes north and south units, and while separated by approximately 70 miles, they both feature some amazing geology, flora, and fauna.

I’ve ridden the south unit loop nearly every year since moving to North Dakota in 1999.  The loop is a reasonable distance (36 miles) and offers short, but challenging climbs.  The wind is always a factor, frequently compounding the challenge of the variable terrain.  Wildlife (particularly bison and wild horse) are often found near the road, so one must be constantly on the lookout for their presence.

Today I rode the south unit loop under overcast skies, occasional showers, but light and respectful automobile traffic.  Three bison herds near/on the road made for some anxious moments between Wind Canyon and Boicourt Overlook, so I declined riding a second time in lieu of a short out-and-back to the Wind Canyon pullout.  It was just as well, for as I descended into the town of Medora at the end of the ride the skies opened up with pouring rain.

Below are a few photos from the ride.  The beautiful surroundings and light traffic made for another excellent day on the bike.  In fact, this ride never disappoints.

 (Entrance to the south unit of Theodore Roosevelt National Park)

 (Nice hill near the park entrance to warm up the legs and lungs)

 (Passing over I-94)

 (Prairie dogs galore at the top of the bluff)

 (Cottonwood Campground along the Little Missouri River)

 (Climb up to Wind Canyon)

 (View of the Little Missouri River from the Wind Canyon pullout)

 (Lots of calves in this bison heard)

 (Glad this one is at a distance from the road)

 (Another bison heard in valley below)

 (At the Boicourt Overlook, facing southwest)

 (Evidence of geologic erosion)

 (Yet more evidence, resulting in a single lane road)

 (Where there’s horse manure…)

 (…there must be a horse!)

 (New trail signs for hikers)

 (Geological strata I)

 (Geological strata II)

 (Geological strata III)

 (Descending to Cottonwood Campground)

 (Bison herd too close for comfort)

 (Second visit to Wind Canyon)

 (Prairie dogs near their mounds)

 (What an amazing ‘mound collage’ created by the prairie dogs!)

(Medora overlook)

Bohemian Hall

Cooler morning temperatures are making for some ideal riding weather.  I took advantage of one such morning recently to do an out-and-back to the Bohemian Hall south of Mandan, North Dakota.  Arriving just before dawn, I captured the following photograph of the hall. Well worth the 60 km round trip!

(Soft hues of a lightening sky; bright moon overhead)

Bicyclists and Motorists – Is a Partnership Possible?

I wrote the following article for the Great Plains Examiner in May 2011 with the original title ‘Bicyclists and Motorists – A Partnership Long Overdue’.  Given the recent horrible news from Kalamazoo, Michigan, I wonder if my well-intentioned message has any relevance today, now five years later.  While I’m not privy to details of the tragedy, I doubt any of the ‘bicyclists guidelines’ below would have offered protection to those killed and injured earlier this week.

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“Get a bicycle.  You will not regret it if you live.” ~Mark Twain

There are times when I’m commuting by bike through Bismarck and Mandan that I think of Mark Twain’s quote.  It encapsulates a classic ‘risk vs. reward’ decision I make every time I embark on my bike to go to work or run an errand.

Having lived on both sides of the river the last 12 years, I’ve had more close calls with motorists than I care to count.  The times I’ve been nearly hit (twice) or run off the road (three times) by a motorist left only minor scars and temporarily frazzled nerves.  I consider myself fortunate.  These experiences have made me a better bicyclist (and motorist), so I keep riding.  To me, the rewards outweigh the risks.

I’m not alone.  We have bicyclists in our community who commute year round, sometimes over 3000 miles annually, regardless of weather and road conditions.  Such efforts, which often go unnoticed, are heroic in every sense of the word.

In many respects, bicycling is a nexus of sustainable transportation.  Few transportation choices concurrently save money, improve personal and community health, reduce air pollution, and offer a sense of freedom and fun rarely achieved while driving an automobile.  These rewards are significant, and are likely to encourage others to take up bike commuting in the future.

Unfortunately, the mere thought of sharing the road with motorists in Bismarck and Mandan is enough to keep many people from commuting by bike.  National statistics justify such hesitancy.  Of the approximately 750 bicyclists killed each year in the U.S., 96% are involved in crashes with motor vehicles.

Mitigating risks associated with bicycle commuting can be achieved through improved roadways, better laws, and education.  Designing in-town roadways with bike lanes is an excellent first step to make transportation corridors more bicycle-friendly.  Current laws governing bicycle use on North Dakota roadways can best be described as fossilized, and are in severe need of updating (they were established in 1973!).  Education should emphasize rules and responsibilities of bicyclists and motorists, with the overarching goal of improving understanding between both groups of road users.

Improved roadways and better laws will take time to implement, but education can start immediately.

So, what should motorists and bicyclists be aware of to share the road safely?  First and foremost, everyone should realize bicyclists have the same rights and responsibilities as drivers of motor vehicles.  This fact may come as a surprise, but it’s true not only in North Dakota, but in all 50 states.  Other notable ‘Share the Road’ guidelines include…

• Bicyclists: Follow the ‘Rules of the Road’ to the letter.  Ride with traffic (don’t be a ‘bike salmon’) and obey all traffic control devices, such as stop signs, lights, and lane markings.
• Motorists: Don’t ‘buzz’ bicyclists when passing.  Provide at least 3 feet between the right side of your vehicle and a bicyclist.
• Bicyclists: Be visible by 1) riding where drivers can see you (that means not on the sidewalk), 2) wearing brightly colored and/or reflective clothing, and 3) using a white front light and red rear light at night (which, incidentally, is North Dakota law).
• Motorists: Learn to recognize situations that may be hazardous to bicyclists, such as potholes and debris, and give them adequate space to maneuver.
• Bicyclists: Ride predictably and communicate effectively.  Ride in a straight line and use appropriate hand signals for turning and braking.  Make eye contact with motorists to let them know of your presence.
• Motorists: Don’t honk your horn when approaching bicyclists.
• Bicyclists: Anticipate conflicts in traffic by scanning the roadway, especially at intersections.  Learn braking and turning techniques to avoid crashes.
• Motorists: Reduce speed when passing bicyclists, especially on narrow roads.  Be particularly careful around children on bikes.

Through an increased understanding of each other’s needs, coupled with a heightened awareness while biking and driving, bicyclists and motorists can transcend the misguided perception of having to fight for a limited amount of road space.  With time, both groups can become partners in transportation, with the common goal of keeping traffic flowing smoothly and safely for the benefit of all road users.

Mark A. Liebig

President, Central Dakota Cyclists

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My view on this relationship is certainly less positive than it was in 2011.  Increasingly, I find myself asking if we have any significant protections against an auto-centric culture.  Overlay the trend of increasingly distracted and/or substance-addled motorists, and the outlook appears bleak.

Memorial Day 2016

(Sunrise at North Dakota Veterans Cemetery)